The Saigon Central Post Office is more than just a historical landmark in Ho Chi Minh City. Beyond its striking colonial architecture, there is a lesser-known treasure within its walls: Mr. Duong Van Ngo, the city's oldest public letter writer. For decades, he has been a bridge between past and present, helping visitors and locals connect through handwritten words.
A Legacy of Words in Saigon Central Post Office
You’re going to have to visit this magnificent post office to meet Mr. Duong Van Ngo, Saigon’s oldest public letter writer. I caught Mr. Duong around 3:05 PM, nearing the end of his 3:30 PM sharp work day. Although Mr. Duong had his plastic bag filled with his treasured belongings to head home, he offered me a seat, and assured me I wasn’t a bother; he wouldn’t leave a minute before 3:30 PM.
Mr. Duong told me he started working at the post office when he was a mere 16 years old. Today, he is 85. Although elderly and delicate, Mr. Duong never fails to ride his bike to work, arriving at 8:00 AM five days a week. He is fluent in French, English, and Vietnamese. Mr. Duong said he was taught French as a boy in school. He stated that he was sent for further schooling by the Post Office at the age of 36. This is where he was taught English from teachers from the United States, but not by American soldiers, he emphasized (although one was a former pilot in the Vietnam War). Mr. Duong warmly explained to me that he writes letters for those that either never learned to write, or for those that need to write a letter to someone in one of the the three languages that, unlike Mr. Duong, they do not know. Mr. Duong has had to write tragic and heartfelt letters, and he keeps certain stories and experiences of those he writes for to himself, if that is what is asked of him.
I politely asked Mr. Duong if I could look at the sign he places next to his small wooden chair every morning to show his purpose at the post office. Fortunately, Mr. Duong misunderstood me, and thought I asked what he carried in his large plastic bag. Instead of pulling out the sign that reads, “public writer” in French, English, and Vietnamese like I asked, he pulled out a worn plastic binder filled with letters that had been sent to him from all around the world. Mr. Duong proceeded to show me hundreds of letters, postcards, and pictures dating back to the 1960’s. Many, he said, he could barely remember, but he spoke with pride and excitement about each letter. Some of the letters were from people he barely met, some were thank you letters, and some were little updates from people he had been acquainted with at the post office, but each were equally meaningful to him.
Mr. Duong explained that he worked in Saigon through very difficult times, including the Vietnam War, but I felt I shouldn’t pry on these details. Suddenly, I noticed Mr. Duong’s eyes veer away from his letters towards the large clock propped front and center of the post office as he both politely and abruptly said, “I’m going to head home Madame.” It was 3:30 PM sharp, so Mr. Duong re-gathered his things, and that was that.
A Glimpse into History
The Saigon Central Post Office itself is a masterpiece, designed by Gustave Eiffel, the same architect behind the Eiffel Tower. Walking into this grand building feels like stepping back in time. The ornate domed ceilings, vintage telephone booths, and the large portrait of Ho Chi Minh remind visitors of the city's rich past. If you’re exploring places to visit in Ho Chi Minh City, this landmark should be high on your list.
What to Expect When Visiting
For those planning to visit, the Saigon Central Post Office is centrally located near Notre Dame Cathedral in District 1, making it a convenient stop for tourists. The best time to visit is in the morning when the air is cooler, and Mr. Duong is actively writing. If you’re interested in learning about the city’s history, this is a perfect opportunity to interact with a living legend.
How to Get There:
By Vespa Tour: If you're looking for an immersive local experience, join The Insider’s Saigon tour, which includes a visit to the Saigon Central Post Office.
By Taxi: Available throughout the city, though negotiating a fair price is recommended.
By Walking: If you're staying in District 1, the post office is easily accessible on foot.
More Than Just a Landmark
One of the most touching aspects of visiting the post office is witnessing Mr. Duong’s dedication. He believes in the power of the written word, and despite modern technology, he insists on continuing his work. When I asked him if he ever planned to retire, he simply smiled and said, "As long as people need my help, I will be here."
If you’re looking for things to do in Saigon that go beyond the usual tourist spots, meeting Mr. Duong and exploring the post office should be on your list. It’s an experience that combines history, culture, and human connection in the heart of Ho Chi Minh City.
Final Thoughts
A trip to Saigon Central Post Office is more than just sightseeing—it’s a step into a world where the written word still holds deep meaning. Whether you need a letter written, want to admire the historic architecture, or simply have a chat with a remarkable man who has spent decades preserving the art of communication, this experience is one-of-a-kind.
For those interested in exploring more cultural experiences in Vietnam, Vespa Adventures offers unique guided tours that take you beyond the typical tourist attractions. Check out The Insider’s Saigon Tour to visit the post office and discover more hidden gems in the city.