by Craig Bowman Cities evolve, and Phnom Penh is no exception. The capital of Cambodia has been experiencing rapid transformation, shifting from a low-rise cityscape to towering developments and urban planning projects. With this growth, some areas have faded into history, while others remain as hidden pockets of the past—one such place is Boeung Kak Lake.
The Once-Thriving Lake Community
Boeung Kak was once the largest and most picturesque lake in Phnom Penh. It was a lively community where an estimated 20,000 people lived in stilted homes over the water, making a living from fishing, small businesses, and tourism. Backpackers flocked here, turning the surrounding streets into a bustling hotspot filled with guesthouses, restaurants, and art spaces. I remember my first visit—sunset over the lake, cold beer in hand, and the sounds of travelers sharing stories about their adventures in Cambodia.
Then came the change. In 2007, a business deal led to the lake being leased to a private company. The water was gradually filled with sand, and thousands of residents were displaced. Where the lake once stretched, there is now a vast area of reclaimed land, awaiting high-rise developments.
What Remains Today
Visiting Boeung Kak now, it’s hard to imagine the vibrant scene it once was. Walking through the area, I saw remnants of its former life—empty lots, abandoned guesthouses, and faded murals left behind by the street art movement that tried to keep the spirit of Boeung Kak alive.
Yet, resilience lingers. Every Saturday morning, a group of local women and expats gathers for a neighborhood clean-up, a testament to the community’s determination. Street artists continue to paint, adding bursts of color to the once-lively streets. I stopped by a small café still standing amidst the change, where the owner, a longtime resident, shared stories of the lake’s heyday and the struggles of those who lost their homes.
Why Boeung Kak Is Still Worth a Visit
If you’re looking for things to do in Phnom Penh beyond the main tourist attractions, Boeung Kak offers a glimpse into the city’s evolving history. It’s a place of contrast—traces of old Phnom Penh intertwined with the growing metropolis. Here’s why you should still check it out:
Street Art & Murals: The neighborhood remains a canvas for local and international artists. Walking through the area, I spotted murals depicting Cambodia’s past, social movements, and tributes to the former lake community.
Hidden Cafés & Bars: A few long-standing businesses still serve up great coffee, cheap beers, and the nostalgic atmosphere of what once was.
Community Initiatives: If you’re visiting on a weekend, join a cleanup effort or meet the locals who continue to fight for the preservation of Boeung Kak’s story.
The Future of Boeung Kak
Urban development continues to reshape Phnom Penh, and Boeung Kak’s future remains uncertain. While some advocate for preserving its cultural significance, high-rise apartments and commercial buildings loom on the horizon. The story of Boeung Kak is one of change, resilience, and the ongoing struggle to retain a piece of history in a rapidly modernizing city.
For those seeking a deeper understanding of Phnom Penh beyond its well-known landmarks, visiting Boeung Kak is a must. It’s a raw, real, and thought-provoking experience that showcases the intersection of past and future.
Explore more on Phnom Penh’s hidden gems with the Countryside Life Tour Siem Reap.
